Life is a Cabernet in the Coonawarra

The Coonawarra wine region in South Australia’s south east is the leading producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia, but this unique growing area also makes exceptional Shiraz, Merlot, Chardonnay and Riesling varieties of wine.

Generations of family wine makers have been producing wines which are world renowned and these days they’ve been joined by younger talented wine makers, ensuring the continuing popularity of the region as a wine tourism destination.

There are around 27 cellar doors in the Coonawarra to sample the local drops and they’re all found in a strip of around 12 kilometres, where the famous terra rossa soil is found.  This combination of rich red top soil covering ancient limestone with pure underground groundwater is the basis for growing the outstanding premium wines they do.

On a recent trip to the region we chose to visit a few cellar doors for not only their wines, but also for their ambiance and tasting experiences offered.

One of our favourites was Brands Laira, a cellar door which has recently undergone a refurbishment and is a very warm, welcoming and impressive venue to visit. The tasting experience is first class with all wines available for tasting including their flagship range, from vines that were planted over 130 years ago.

Other cellar doors we visited were Majella, Raidis Estate and Parker Estate all of which have aesthetics that complement the wine tasting experiences, and knowledgeable friendly staff to guide you through tasting the varieties on offer. Most of the cellar doors also have spacious outdoor areas to spend time in when weather permits, and many have charcuterie platters and food to accompany the wine tastings.

For the ultimate Instagram shot, you have to visit the old Coonawarra rail siding which was built in 1898 to enable the local vignerons to move barrels of wine for export to the world. This is also part of the Coonawarra Rail Trail, which begins in the town of Penola and ends at Glenroy, a total distance of around 19 kilometres, with Coonawarra being the midway point. The sealed trail passes through vineyards and grazing country and can be used by cyclists and walkers to enjoy a different perspective of the area.

Penola, around 10 kilometres to the south, is the place to base yourself to explore the region, with dining, shopping, art and history to discover. The town is possibly best known as the one time home of Australia’s only saint, Mary MacKillop, and her story can be seen in depth at the Mary MacKillop centre in the town.

One of the most authentic displays of history can be seen in Petticoat Lane, a uniquely preserved section of town with timber and stone cottages that have been saved thanks to the National Trust of South Australia and public donations by visitors.

A number of cottages still stand in the places they were built in the mid to late 1800s and visitors can walk through the properties and gardens to get a glimpse of life back in those days. It was given the name Petticoat Lane because stories go it was the only lane to have women living in it.

Remnants of the occupant’s lives and their stories from over the years are on display inside the cottages including a handmade doll found under the floorboards. It’s quite eerie walking through the cottages and every squeak and groan of the floorboards makes you wonder how they have managed to remain standing.

A nice touch at the back of the cottages is a large vegetable and herb garden which is tended by locals and the produce is available for visitors to buy ‘at a fair price’ as you pass through.

Penola is also known for its annual arts festival, held over three days each May. The festival celebrates all forms of art from performance to exhibitions and workshops as well as the food and fine wine of the region. The family friendly event promotes tourism in the area and encourages locals of all ages to participate. In 2026 the event will take place from Friday 15th to Sunday 17th of May.

The Coonawarra and Penola region is around 375 kilometres south east of Adelaide and there are a number of options for caravanners to stay with caravan parks, free camp areas and winery stays included.

Cheers

Glenys

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