Eden on the south coast of New South Wales is a destination for caravanners like ourselves, to spend a while enjoying the easy coastal vibes, and take in epic scenic views, but this town on the coast known as the Humpback Highway, holds a deep connection to its whaling past while thriving as a whale watching, fishing and diving destination in its present day.

Well before European settlement, the local Yuin people had a deep connection with pods of killer whales, believing them to be deceased kin reborn to the sea, returning to Twofold Bay annually. The relationship between killer whales and the indigenous people was mutually beneficial with the killer whales driving other whales and sea creatures into the bay where they would strand and provide food for the local inhabitants who would leave part for the killers to feed on.

The killer whales returning each year to this deep natural harbour, were known individually by their characteristic markings and dorsal fins and were even named, a practice which still exists today when it comes to identifying whales that return to regular breeding and nursery grounds around Australia.

When European settlers began whaling in the town they continued the practice and learnt to identify the same whales returning each year by their markings, with some whales seen by generations of Eden whalers. The lifespan of a killer whale, or Orca, averages about 50 years, so the relationships with the whalers were like old friends returning each year.

The heart of the whaling stories in Eden are based around the Davidson family who operated the largest and longest running whaling station in Australia, from the mid-19^th to early 20^th century. Over four generations of the family were involved in the industry and the relationship with the killer whales is a story of incredible mutual trust, respect and amazing co-operation.

One particular killer whale was given the name Old Tom, because of his penchant for tom foolery and antics that seemed to be purely for entertainment. He was a return visitor to the bay for many years and had a special relationship with the whalers including alerting them when a whale had been herded into the bay, by slapping his tail to gain attention.

Once a whale had been harpooned by whalers, the killer whales would be given first access to the carcass where they would feast on the parts of the animal they wanted (usually just the tongue and lips), leaving the majority of the beast for the whalers to tow to the whaling station and process.

Such was the incredible relationship between whalers and the regular killer whales, that the creatures were known to even protect whalers from sharks by circling them if their boats were accidentally overturned during whale hunts. The favour was repaid with the whalers avoiding using harpoon guns when the killer whales were around, because it frightened them.

Sadly in September of 1930, the whale Old Tom was found floating, dead in Twofold Bay and his loss was mourned by the locals with his death even noted in local and metropolitan newspapers. As a mark of respect his skeleton was cleaned and processed and is now on display at the Eden Killer Whale Museum, which was built to hold his remains and keep all the incredible tales of the time, along with other memorabilia of an industry long gone.

Today the museum also sounds a siren whenever a humpback or Southern Right whale sighting is made in Eden, no longer to alert whalers but to let visitors know and have the opportunity to see the magnificent creatures at peace in the bay.

While I’m not normally a fan of macabre history, a visit to the Killer Whale Museum in Eden is simply a must, and I’d strongly suggest making it one of your first stops, so you can gain a better appreciation of the town’s history and other relevant sites to visit around town.

Another poignant spot to visit in Eden is the Shiralee memorial wall, a wave shaped structure built to remember the loss of the trawler Shiralee and all on board in 1978. It serves as a memorial to all seamen who have sailed from the port and were lost at sea.

Eden is still a working port and you can see a fleet of fishing boats at Snug Cove as they return with the day’s catch. Being a deep water port, domestic and international cruise ships are also regular visitors from September to April each year.

There are some spectacular walks to take in Eden too, varying in difficulty and length, that take in the towns heritage, indigenous and maritime history. Pay a visit to the impressive Eden Visitor Information Centre at Snug Cove, for all the details of these as well as information on fishing or diving charters to take.

In Eden we stayed at the Reflections Caravan Park which is in a spectacular location on Lake Curalo with Aslings Beach just a short stroll across the road. There are some beautiful spots to stay overlooking the edge lake, where you can kayak or paddleboard, and fishing is a popular and fruitful pastime at Aslings Beach.

Every now and again a certain town we visit in our travels leaves a lasting impression, and Eden and the story of the killer whales is one that will stay with me for a long time.

Enjoy Eden

Glenys